Dock Boxes and How to Build

Dock Boxes-

to keep all your water toys

Dock Boxes

There are different type of Dock Boxes, wooden ,fiberglass,polyethylene resin
stainless steel and etc.

for example: Trionic Corp. (Comany with over 35 years of experience in the marine segment products adn accessories) offers e rotationally cast in a mold with impact-resistant polyethylene resin heavy-duty dock boxes. All are Hammer impact tested available in white and custom colors.

Trionic Corp. Dock Box

Unlike Trionic , "MoBox" dock boxes and dock stps eare made of fiberglass. It is typically 1 times thicker than the mass produced slimline and large dock boxes you find at the big box retail stores.

MoBox Premium Dock Box

Traditionally, dock boxes were made using wood, material that wasn't costly and was easy to obtain in nature - that its not bad idea. Below you can find more details about cedar deck box and "How To Build". - to keep all your boat accessories, water toys or life jackets and water toys out of the weather.

Dock Boxes Unlimited

They provide only the highest quality dock boxes and equipment for boat owners. In add to volume options and other characteristics when you choose "Dock Boxes Unlimited" deck boxes (made from fiberglass), you maximize the overall appearance and style of your marina.

Dock Boxes Unlimited quoted me for a qty of 8 of the boxes in the link. After shipping the savings was about $100 less per box, so I'd have to imagine if we had a much larger buy the savings would be even greater.

Better Way Products Dock Boxes

They’re making available an additional rectangular dock box from fiberglass (3/16" thick) for boat owners and have established more consistent rules for what is acceptable on the docks.

All dock boxes comes with with a UV-resistant gelcoat finish in white/Off-white interior and One year warranty.

Boats are limited on space, so the dock box is where you keep all the stuff you need, but don't need to clutter up your boat. Everything from lines and life jackets to pots and pans for cooking. The dock box also doubles as a nice side table when needed and Better Way Products will offer you a great choice.

Models 426 and larger are rriced from $439.99 - $2,249.99 and are equipped with a bracket to which you can add a pair of pneumatic lifts. The small standard and low-profile deck boxes are UPS-shippable.

Harken vinyl Dock Boxes

If you have been to many marinas around the world which are truly world class (not a boat under a million in them) and they do not inforce white dock boxes. Harken dock box covers comes from vinyl-backed polyester and all feature a zipped top flap on the front for easy access.

Along with designing all of Harken soft dock boxes needs for the J/70 they also came up with this Sail22 Harken Soft Dock Box. The 4 corners have tabs with grommets in case you want or need to lash it to the dock. Bottom is vinyl to keep water out.
Models: Grey and Black - 40Lx24Wx18H for the one. Big one is 72Lx24Wx24H.

West Marine Fiberglass Dock boxes

Everything depends on how much room you have on your slip. If you have a large white space on ours so put the items you don't need on the boat in the box but may occassionally use. If you have extra tools, cleaning supplies, fish cleaning kit, extension cord, etc. better look for dock boxes in wide range of sizes and standards of from West Marine. All they are UV-resistant gelcoat finish and comes with SS-hardware and lockable latches.

Built tough to endure ruthless weathera after one storm the paint is not going to chip. Built to store boat owners loads of gear without any flexing.

How To Build A dock box

How To Build Video

If you Need more storage. Wayne Lennox provides a simple plan on youtube for a dock box.

Prepare Main Dock Box Parts

Select some nice 2x4 cedar materials and mill all the frame components.

The frame rails use small stub tenons to join to the grooves in the legs, and now's the time to create spaces for them. Using a dado blade in your tablesaw, cut a 3/8"-deep x 3/8-wide groove, in from the edges on two opposing inside faces of all legs.

Prepare the two lower front/back rails and lower side rails the same way. The upper front, back and side rails are similar but less complicated. They only need one groove each.

With the grooves cut in the edges of the legs and rails, you'll create those short, 2/4"-long tenons on the ends of the rails next. You can used an auxiliary fence with a dado blade. If you want to follow the same process I did, set up your machine so the blade cuts a 1/4"-deep x 3/8"-wide swath, then use a mitre gauge to support the rails as they travel over the blade.

This first pass creates the narrower, outside cheek. Cut the ends of all your rails like this, plus some pieces of scrap that are the same size. These will let you tweak the machine settings to get the tenon thickness just right before proceeding with actual workpieces.

Raise the saw blade to 5/8" high and continue the milling process to cut the opposing tenon cheek on one of your test pieces. . Repeat the process for the rest of your rails, testing them when you're done. If the fit is too tight, the side of the grooves may break off the legs during assembly. Clearly label all the parts top/bottom and left/right, then set them aside.

Choose the clearest lumber you have and cut the cedar panel boards 5 1/16"- wide x 23 3/4"-long before milling 1/4"-wide x 5/16"-deep rabbet grooves on the edges. Since these form the lap joints that connect neighbouring panel boards, they need to alternate in location. Take a look at the plans for details.

Now, set up your table saw to cut the rabbet grooves and rip the panels to width in a single operation. Stacked a right and left-hand pair of 1/8"-wide by 8"-dia. dado blades on a 10"-dia. rip blade with a 0.010"-thick spacer between them. Setting the fence to rip 5 1/16" wide also creates one nice 1/4" rabbet at the same time. Flip and turn the board around, making a second pass to cut the opposing rabbet. After this is the best time to sand the panel boards in preparation for assembly.

Assemble the Frames

Remember how you milled grooves along the entire length of each leg?

While it was easiest to do things this way, you don't actually want a continuous groove. And that's where filler strips come in. Cut eight of them to length now, then glue and clamp them into the bottom of the grooves in each leg.

When the filler strips have dried in place, sort the panel boards so the best ones end up in the front of the box, then dry-lit all four frames together.

To do this you'll need to saw the rabbet from the left-most panel board before adding more boards to each group. Orient the most attractive side of each board up, using a spacer to create even 1/8" gaps between them. Rip the last, panel board to final width.

When everything fits and the panel boards are equally spaced, glue the frame together with the outside lace upward on a flat surface. Remember to check the orientation of the legs and the lower side rails. Apply glue to the complete length of the leg grooves, to the tenons 011 the upper and lower rails, and put a blob inside the rail grooves where the middle of each panel board lands. This central glue pattern keeps the spaced boards in step, yet still allows them to expand and contract with the fluctuating moisture levels common around any lake or pool over the course of the year. Pull everything together with pipe clamps, then equalize diagonal measurements to ensure the assemblies are square.

The composite decking stock you can use for the bottom slats is called Xtendex.

Like many brands, it's a hollow extrusion with internal webbing for strength. This makes it easy to prepare the notched ends that support the bottom slats as they rest on the lower rails. Cut the bottom slats now, then prepare for final assembly of thedock box wilh the aid of a helper.

Bring the front, back and one side assembly together with the legs under clamping pressure, then slip the bottom slats in place before adding the second end.

Measure diagonal distances on the box from corner to corner, and il these numbers are equal within 1/8", then consider your box square.

This is a more accurate approach than using a framing square because it eliminates errors caused by any distortion in the box sides. When the glue is dry. turn the box over and fasten the bottom slats to the inside lip of the lower rails with small nails.

To keep things insect-free inside the dock box, staple aluminum window screen to cover the underside of the base, fitting it inside the groove.

While all of these parts are drying, prepare the four pieces you'll need for the top moulding. Miter the ends to 45°, test-fit and drill holes for the 3/8"-dia. x 1 1/4" dowels that help secure the moulding.

Three dowels on each end and live each on the front and back work well.

Building the Lid of Box

This part of the project "How To Build A dock box" to includes a frame made from a pair of rails and three arched uprights one at each end and another in the middle. This frame is covered with narrow slats of interlocking wood, a notched hanging rail spans the length of the lid, creating a place to hang life jackets while they're stored.

Select three good pieces of 1x6 and fasten them together face to face with double-sided tape for the arches.

Bend a thin piece of wood to the curved shape shown in the plans, then trace the shape onto your group of boards. Cut out the arch on a handsaw and sand down to your layout lines.

This way you can cut and sand all three at the same time.

With a bearing-guided 1/2"-tall rabbeting bit in a table-mounted router, cut a 1/4"- deep by -wide groove in both sides of the curved edges of the group you're working with.

Done correctly, the two outside arches should now have a single rabbet, while the centre piece should have a 1/4" rib in the centre of its curved edge. Separate the lid arches, then remove the ridge of waste material along the top of the middle rail using a handsaw.

Clean up the edge using a flush-trimming bit in your router table. The middle arch should now be shorter than the two outer arches.

Cut the front and hack lid rails to size and assemble the lid frame with the arch rabbets facing inward. Trace the angle of the arch onto the rail end grain and make a rip on the table saw to create a smooth transition from arch to rail.

Next, prepare a 1/4"-deep by 3/8" wide dado in the centre of each lid rail to interlock with the middle arch before bringing the parts together.

Clamp the frame without glue, then drill pairs of counterbored pilot holes into the ends of the arches, centred on the dado. Glue and screw the frame together, first with the outer arch members, but leave the middle one out for now. When everything is dry, trim and sand the plugs flush.

Gather more cedar for the 1 3/4" x 47 7/8" lid slats and cut them to shape. Use a dado blade in the tablesaw to pre- pare the -wide by 3/8"-deep rabbeted edges that create the lap joints that con- nect the lid slats.

If your box will be used for life jack- et storage, cut the hanging rail now from 2x2 lumber.

The plans show how to create 1/4"-deep notches on three sides of the rail using a 9/16"-wide dado blade in your tablesaw. Use a router with a 3/4" round over hit lo ease all edges and transform the square, notched strip of wood into a dowel. Bore a 1 1/2" hole in the centre of the middle arch, 2 1/4" in from the bottom edge and insert the hanging rail. Glue and screw the middle arch within the lid of box.

The hanging rail works best with wooden curtain rings with cup hooks hanging from them. Drill pilot holes in the rings now and install 3/4"-dia. cup hooks before slipping the rings onto the rod. You'll find that up to 10 rings fit comfortably.

When all the rings are in place, secure the ends of the hanging rod with #8 x 2 1/2" screws driven through the outside lid arches. Counterbore the screw holes and cover ihem with more tapered wooden plugs.

install the lid

Now it's time to install the lid slats, but as you'll find, the first and last ones need to be a little different than the rest.

Cut a pair of these edge slats to 1/4" thick and two inches wide. Dry-fit all the slats on the lid frame, starting and ending with an edge slat that overlaps the rail by 1/4". Apply glue to all mating surfaces and add slats until there's room lor only one more.

Rip this final edge slat to fit. Clamp across the width of the lid, using the archshaped off-cuts as curved clamping pads for the ends and middle. Let the glue dry completely, then sand the top smooth, starting with 100-grit through to 180-grit.

Centre the completed lid on the box, then install a pair of stainless-steel hinges.

Add a pair of chest handles centred on the sides of the box and a couple of heavy-duty lid stays to keep the lid from opening too far. Cut small pieces of cedar about one inch square and screw them to the bottom ol the legs.

These sacrificial pads protect the legs from water that is absorbed by the end grain, and when they deteriorate you can replace them easily.

Apply three coats of quality spar varnish to the inside and outside faces of the box, moulding and lid.

Sand lightly between coats, then leave the box for a few days while the finish cures. Then take the box outdoors and enjoy the summer with dry, mould-free outdoor gear.

used materials: Canadian Home Workshop