Boat Building Sources of Information:
Gifts for Boaters:
The Simplest and Traditional Boat Building Methods include Plywood Methods.
Books describing particular types of traditional boats, include Surveys and Safety books.
The Sailmaker's Apprentice. Books describing the whole sailmaking process. A Guide for the Self-Reliant Sailor.
Books describing the Restoration and Painting boat process
Other skills used in boatbuilding: Oars and Engines, Lofting amd Rigging.
Boat building Methods, New and non-traditional.
Books describing How to build a canoe, Methods and styles. Canoe or Pirogue.
Sailing Canoe Sources of Information, Building Methods and Museums.
Boat Plans & Kits
Doug Hylan and Associates A fine 15 foot 4 inch sailing and rowing Chesapeake skiff; see review in WoodenBoat #157, pp. 74-75. Easy to build as good boats go, and with a lot of capacity and style and a great traditional flair. "It's simple and inexpensive, but it is not cheap." Plans $60. PO Box 58 Brooklin Maine 04616 (206) 359-9807
The San Francisco Pelican A 12-foot sailboat very suitable for home builders, and for families, and safe in fairly rough waters. Normal crew is 2 or 3. "The Pelican became an immediate success as a roomy, comfortable family boat, seaworthy, versatile, and fast enough for competitive racing. Building a Pelican... is ideal for amateur builders with basic carpentry skills - a straightforward project which is set out in detailed plans and instruction booklets. Many High School woodshops and Sea Scout groups have selected the Pelican to build as a trainer-sailing project. " Plywood construction with centerboard, flat bottom, sampan bow, wide beam, standing lug rig with jib. Trailerable, versatile and seaworthy - can be used from gunkholing in shallow waters to off-shore cruising. Also there are the pocket cruisers Great Pelican (16'), SuperPelican (18') and the Yangtze 18' junk-rig variation.
Plans are available for Pelican 12': three sheets of large scale drawings and a step-by-step building instructons booklet, plus hardware, rigging, and sailing information. Cost is $40.00 including postage. Available from Muriel Short SF Pelican Boats Phone/Fax 415-924-0685
Ned MacIntosh The "Merry Mac" 13' 6" catboat centerboarder. Requires only two sheets of 1/4 inch 14' plywood, one sheet of 8' ply, and a small amount of solid stock. Mast is aluminum and unstayed. A single builder can make one in about a week of full time work. Can carry a family of four. Can use oars or outboard. Planes in a moderate breeze. You can sleep in it. "A super boat for lakes or saltwater. They are simple to sail and simple to build. And for their size they are really quite fast." See photo in Woodenboat #139 p. 37. These have been made for over 40 years so they are well proven. Order boats or plans from Paul Follansbee Sebago Lake Boat Works P.O. Box 636 Raymond Maine 04071 USA
David Stimson Pine island Skiff 15' 4" "excellent fast stable and handsome" "Swallow" nice 12'x 4'2" sailing and rowing skiff; lug sail. plans $64; fabric on frame! "Sea Urchin" 11'5" x 4'4" rowing and sailing skiff; sprit sail. plans $41 simple wood construction. full sized patterns. "Osprey": 15' flat-bottom sailing skiff Stimson Marine RR1 Box 524 Boothbay Maine 04537 800 373 6313
Arch Davis 11' "Sand Dollar" "A skiff for a novice builder who would like to put together a really graceful craft and learn some basic skills in the process." Lug, sprit or gunter rig; centerboard; kick-up rudder. Beam 3' 11" photo p. 97 WoodenBoat 144. Building video. Two-page design discussion and drawings, WoodebBoat #147 pp106-107. "extraordinarily detailed plans make this project suitable and educational for first-time builders." Note this boat will be large enough for 2 kids, maybe three, or two adults at most. Arch Davis Design RR4 Box 39 Belfast maine 04915 207-930-9873
Parker Marine Enterprises catalog of sharpie designs 14' to 40' $15 Reuel Parker's "The Sharpie Book" tells you all you need to know to build some good boats. This is one of the best recent boat building books. For this list of of good basic boats two fine choices are: "14 foot Cape Cod Oystering skiff", for oar and sail "18 foot modified sharpie skiff", for sailing. A nice big boat. Sharpies are easy and inexpensive to build, you get a fine boat, have a long and successful tradition, and are high-performance sailers. "The Sharpie Book" should be available through regular bookstores. The book and complete plans and catalogs from: Parker Marine nterprises PO Box 3685 Ft. Pierce FL 34946 561-595-0846.
John Gardner - author of several books of boat building plans and a top small craft designer and builder - Many of the boats described by John Gardner are a difficult for the first time builder, but some are quite suitable. I list some here. All can be made from his books with no further plans or instructions.
from "Building Classic Small Craft", by John Gardner, 320 pages, 250 illus. 1977.
14' x 5' sailing flattie skiff
18' Quincy skiff, easy, inexpensive, for recreational rowing.
14'9" Lowell dory skiff; stable, for small outboard or rowing (sort of a nice classic boat, easy and cheap)
14' semi-dory for rowing, sail, or small outboard; cb; kick-up rudder; 90 sq ft. sail. beam about 4'10"
12' car-top semi-dory for oars, small motor, or sail
18' or 20' 2-masted sharpie. 5'4" beam. "As a daysailer for a family with young children there could be no better boat. She would also be a great boat for the home builder because of her extreme simplicity." [in many cases I would choose Reuel Parker's 18' sharpie in preference]
from "Classic Small Craft You Can Build," John Gardner. Mystic Seaport, 1993. 13'9" sharpie skiff in plywood; good youth project with complete building instructions; for rowing only.
18' plywood river bateau, rowing only, similar contruction to the skiff.
14' flatbottom skiff to sail and row, can also use a small outboard. "sailing this skiff will require some agility on the part of the person using it." maximum beam about 4'2" plywood on frame.
Here is a complex one to build but highly regarded for rowing (only). 13'6" Amesbury skiff. "In my opinion these Amesbury skiffs were the best small rowboats ever built for everyday use around the waterfront, and nothing that has occured since has caused me to alter this judgement." Coming from Gardner that is a strong endorsement. These are strictly for rowing, not for sail, and there is no place to mount a motor on this hull.
Glen-L Marine 176 page book of 240 boat design descriptions $5.00 Highly regarded plans and service from Glen-L. 9152 Rosecrans Bellflower CA 90706 (310) 630-6258
Ken Hankinson Associates several simple plywwod skiffs including: "Meghan" - 10' x 4'4" sailing skiff "Nehmah" - 15' x 4'6" sharpie sailing skiff $6.00 catalog, 81 pages P.O. Box 272 Hayden Lake, Idaho 83835 (208) 772-5547
Warren Jordan Jordan Boat Works "Footloose" - a 15' x 5' 6" daysailer; can also be rowed or small outboard. Based on a flattie skiff. Simple plywood construction. 79 sq. foot sprit sail is very easy to rig and use. Judging from the photos it looks like a good all-around boat for sail, oars, and outboard that is fairly easy to build. Might be a bit more stable and a bit less speedy than the Merry Mac. info $2.00 PO Box 194 South Beach, Oregon 97366
Jim Michalak plywood boats; no jigs; no lofting; catalog & brochure $4.00 all very shallow draft (less than a foot); plans for oars and sails inc. Simple & light rowboats, canoes, and sailboats. Some power skiffs. Looks like the easiest sorts of boats to build. Note: simple 15'6" sailing camp cruiser . See photo WoodenBoat #144 p. 97. 118 . Randle Lebanon IL 62254 (618) 537-2167
Swan Designs many designs, 10 to 26 feet; oar, sail, power: 60 page study packet $9.00. Mostly plywood skiffs. "Little Gem" 13'6" x 4'4" row or 4 hp outboard; also sails "Winterhawk" 15' 3" foot by 5 foot plywood daysailer, rows as well. "Shadow" 15'5" by 4'5" skiff "Nez Perce" 13'6" by 4'11' outboard wood skiff P.O. Box 267 Hubbard, Oregon 97032 (503) 982-5062
William Atkin Catalog of over 200 designs; many are pre-WWII so if you want a skiff to go with an antique outboard this may be the source for authenic plans. Also lots of sailing and rowing skiffs, and larger craft for sail and power. $7.00 U.S., $9.00 Canada; $12.00 overseas Atkin and Co. P.O. Box 3005 Noroton, CT 06820
Phil Bolger. Famous for simple plywood boats, tho' he designs everything. Many boats for oars, sail, or power. Bolger's books: Small Boats, International Marine 1973 The Folding Schooner and Other Adventures in Boat Design, Int'l Marine 1976 Different Boats, International Marine 1980 Thirty-Odd Boats, International marine, 1982 100 Small Boat Rigs Boats with an Open Mind: Seventy-Five Unconventional Designs, 1994 plans from: Phil Bolger and Friends 29 Ferry St. Gloucester, MA 01930
some Bolger plans are sold by: Harold Payson & Co. Study packet for 25 easy-to-build "instant boats" $5.00 Pleasant Beach Road South Thomaston, Maine 04858 (207) 594-7587
and Bolger building articles: "Sweet Pea" A fine rowing craft for one or two persons, derived from peapods, made stitch and glue. Can also be sailed. Woodenboat numbers 104,105. "Cartopper" WoodenBoat numbers 85 86 87 and 88. 12' row and sail skiff.
Jacques Mertens / Mertens-Goossens NA offers several stitch and glue plywood designs for the home builder. For this selection these are the boats I would choose: Caravelle: 14'4" x 5'6" sailboat Sharpie 14: 14'4" x 4'6" for sail, oars, and outboard in that order Flat Skiff 14: 14' x 4'6" outboard for 1 to 7 hp; better than department store aluminum utility boat, looks better, and cheaper too. You can find lots of information about these and many other boats on line at http://www.bateau.com 343 23rd Street S Vero Beach, Florida 32962 (407) 567-8422
Harold Payson & Co. Study packet for 25 easy-to-build "instant boats" $5.00 Pleasant Beach Road South Thomaston, Maine 04858 (207) 594-7587 Books by Payson about boats: Go Build Your Own Boat, Harold 'Dynamite' Payson, 128 pages. 180 illus. Van Nostrand 1983. An overview of boat building. Includes complete instructions for building a rowing dory. The first part is a good sound introduction to traditional carvel construction; the second part is building with simple plywood methods, a technique now linked to Payson's name.
Build the New Instant Boats, Harold Payson. 147 pages, 92 photos, 33 plans. 8' sailing pram, 15' power boat, 16' double-end sharpie, and others. "Anyone with a positive attitude and a smattering of intelligence mixed with a little common sense can build one of these boats." Instant Boats, Harold Payson, 136 pages, 60 illus. Includes 8' punt, 12' kayak, 12' Teal(sail/row), 15' skiff, Complete plans for "Teal" but not the others Teal assesment: "I built a Teal, designed by Phil Bolger, for my daughter. It's a double-ended 12' flat bottom rowing/sailing skiff from three sheets of 4x8 plywood. It's reasonably pretty, rows very well and is easy to build. I put it together in a week of evenings, and I'm not particularly fast. Construction is covered in exhaustive detail in "Instant Boats" by Harold "Dynamite" Payson.
There are reduced scale plans in the book which I found quite adequate..." How to Build the Gloucester Light Dory. Harold Payson. WoodenBoat 32 p. A dory in plywood; a popular tender and harbor boat. oars only. Build the Instant Catboat. Harold Payson. 42 pages. Derived by Bolger from the Beetle Cat. A good, stable, sailboat for one or two sailors. Fairly easy construction using "tack and tape" techniques. plywood. Materials cost about $1000 in 1985. 12'3" Said to sail nicely, like a larger boat.
Swallows and Amazons To learn abou these famous boats for children, and mow to do it yourself, see "The Boats of Swallows and Amazons" online at Jim Thayer Plans for the "Wee Punkin" sailing pram; "inexpensive and great for kids" Rt 1 Box 75 Colbran Colorado 81624
Joel White designs: "Martha's Tender" 9'6" x 4'4" tender for outboard power or oars. Classic motor launch form in a small size; designed for outboard or oars. Basic plywood construction; covered with fiberglass. Can be extended to 14'. Good design. Could add daggerboard and sail (not included in plans). Two guys can build it in a full week of work. Plans from Woodenboat Store. Building articles in WB nos. 45, 46, 47.
"Shellback dinghy" 11'2" x 4'5", to sail and row for one or two persons. Intermediate difficulty: glued plywood laps. designed by Joel White. Plans from WoodenBoat Store. booklet: "How to Build the Shellback Dinghy." ric Dow. WoodenBoat. 64 pages. also available as a kit from WoodenBoat. building articles in WoodenBoat numbers 116,117,118 (about the same material as in booklet)
"Shearwater" 16' x 4'5" lapstrake pulling boat of Norwegian form. Can also be sailed, but can't carry a motor. A really lovely long slim craft tapered at both ends. Rows nicely. capacity 3; 2 rowing stations. This is the kind of boat most everyone who sees it will ask about. Probably not stable enough a sail craft for timid beginners. Intermediate building difficulty. about 150 pounds. Plans from WoodenBoat. Photo on page 118 of WoodenBoat #137.
Windward Designs, designs by Karl Stambaugh "Windward 15" 15' plywood sailing skiff (see photo in WB number #124 p. 115) Very nice shape based on traditional Chesapeake boats. and several similar boats. $10 for complete plans catalog. 794 Creekview Rd. Severna Park, Maryland 21146 (800) 376 3152 see also article on Bay Skiffs in Wooden Boat number 88.
Used materials: Wikipedia, part of the "Great Encouragement to Boatwrights" available on www.home.earthlink.net and contributors.
Wooden Boat Plans
Wooden Boat Plans Construction
Please remember that you're besides saving money from costly manufacturers or factory designers, but you'll in addition have the option to keep your boats cost effectively. Boat building has become a lot more economized today as a result of modernization. By using less costly more efficient components and fewer parts at the same time, you'll find savings everywhere.
A wooden home made sail boats has many advantages compared to other boats with various materials. They're light and sturdy and characteristically tend to be more efficient to comply with your design aesthetic. What's more they only require quite simple materials and gear plus much more accessible.
Boat Plans Guidelines
After you purchase a 254 Boat plan, you will get the guidelines to wooden boat plans construction. It has step-by-step tutorials, which can make your building process simpler sailing! These plans make sense and are easy to follow without having to be too complex.
On top of that, they are available in all detailed info on what elements will suit best for the kind of boat which you want to build. And not only that, but you may also discover the best home made sail boats building techniques available. And it's all ready for down load at anytime that you are able to fulfill that boat building desire of yours.
Home Made Sail Boats - Building Kit
Home Made Sail BoatsYou can acquire boat building kits, and you'll have everything you may need in one place. It's convenient to have your building kit and materials available, so that you don't have the difficulties of attempting to obtain the right tools.
With all these you save cash on contractors' fees or maybe the cost of plans! Not only that but you'll become familiar with a new skill after which you can start building different types of boats.
Whether you will want home made sail boats or a Traditional Dory you are able to build the boat you've always dream of.
Quick Canoe 155 - Boat Plans for only $50
Use a long, stringy timber batten (it may have been the length of hoop pine - going to use for the in whale) to mark the gentle curves. The batten was clamped to the nails with welding clamps and a line scribed from the curve of the batten onto the ply on the same side of the batten as the ''nails'', so that the scribed line is in-line with the nails.
Another way wit pieces that are a bit shorter
Use it from one end but don't draw in the last two intervals where the batten ends. When you move the batten to continue the line you are drawing overlap it with two of the intervals where the first part of the line was drawn. Principle is, if you use a shorter batten the last two intervals between the nails at the join will be inaccurate.
High clamping pressures and good fits in Quick Canoe standard specifications.
The Quick Canoes are designed to be budget boats so they do offer some advice on how glues other than epoxy can be used. But in reality, if epoxy is used for taping or filleting, it isn't that big a quantity.
Countries where ply is expensive should consider full epoxy coating too - to give the boat a long life.
John's fishing Boat
Sheet #11 attaching the bottom and finishing
HOW TO ATTACH BOTTOM. Tack bottom in place and mark hull shape. Add 1/4" all around. Remove and cut bottom. Attach bottom starting at the bow using waterproof glue, 1" brads into sideboards where needed and 11/2H screws into transom and bow plate. Trim bottom flush with sideboards and ease the corner, (fig. #4). After attaching bottom, fiberglass seams on both sides. If you don't have a 'perfect" joint, don't be overly concerned. The fiberglass resin will fill small voids.
ATTACH BOTTOM RUNNERS. Rip lumber to 3/4" x 3/4" for bottom runners. Attach to the bottom with waterproof glue and 3/4p screws, beginning at the stern and working toward the bow.
OPTIONS: Cleats can be added to stiffen the bottom, if you build your boat over 36" in width and for safer footing. This will also greatly strengthen the boat. An auxiliary gusset is necessary if a motor is to be used. If you intend to use a motor you may want to add a motor pad to thicken and reinforce the transom. An aluminum plate will prevent the motor from damaging the wooden transom. Salvage and recycling places are a good resource for 1/8 and 1/4" plate. Aluminum is easily cut with wood working toots. Handles can be added to bow and transom.
read more at:
The Plans for the Oz Goose sailboat
It's fast great family small boat that sails well (13.8knots (15mph)) with two adults aboard. The Boat is really really easy to sail.
Training boats usually suffer from either being too frisky, but Goose is utterly ideal for the teaching situation. The Goose sailboat is very predictable and handles big errors with ease in quite strong winds.
The boat always goes where it is pointed regardless of wind pressure, sail trim or angle of heel without much tiller load at all. Very light helm so is suitable for younger sailors to steer.
In very light winds it is responsive to every gust and instantly responsive to the correct sail trim even with three adults aboard.
The Oz Goose will lend itself to a tighter budget.
You can get away with less-than premium materials and still sleep well at night knowing that it's something of a whimsy.
As a Goatee,you seem to be describing the GIS's sweet spot: protected waters, multiple crew or solo, oars for when the wind dies, maybe some camp sailing. The build is not any harder than the Goose. But you'll really want to pay for quality Okoume ply, fully encapsulate in good/high quality epoxy, and spring for a real Dacron sail.
The boat design are based on slab sides and flat bottoms with framed bulkheads. They are glued together in the same manner, relying on interior chine logs and glass tape on the exterior.
The Oz Goose has decking. Depending on the variant of Goose, there may be a stand-alone center case like the Goat, or it might be integrated into one side's buoyancy chamber. Boat have buoyancy chambers that must be done correctly. The Goose doesn't have adds knees/breast-hook and inwales with spacers.
Materials will run around $3,000
for plans: http://opengoose.com/category/plans/
The build difficulty is negligible.
Oz Goose 2016 Boat Plans
The small boat Oz Goose plans covers two styles of boat building.
First - the cheapest option is to built Oz Goose with timber framing. Suitable where the costs for framing and shipping of timber is more expensive.
clicking HERE you can purchase the 2016 OzGoose boat plan.
Open Goose small sailing boat
Sailed the 8ft ozracer with the GIS sail. It's nothing bad, apart from the longer mast needed. Handling is fine.
Of courese big sails are great in the light stuff. But they have a question over them in the strong.
If a sail is big. say the 106 square feet lug vs the original 40 square foot sails on the PDRacers. When you reef a 40 square foot sail you get something in the 20 square foot range.
When you reef someting in the 90 square foot range you end up with something in the 40 square foot range.
So when the smaller sails are reefing on an expedition you may have a problem. If daysailing, you just go back to the beach or go home or my preferred response is you struggle upwind with the boat then scream back downwind and repeat.
Solution: not so difficult when you know the problem. Have a stupidly small reef available on your big sail.
It will mean slightly weird sail geometry but getting a sailmaker to unpick the leach above the full reef and put anothr eyelet there Then there is something for emergencies. The sail will reef like a lug initially then the last reef will be like a lateen being reefed.
If you are into categorising sails - the lateen and the balance lug are the same sail as the lug turns into a lateen when fully reefed, and it would be a fun bomb to drop into a conversation with someone who is fond of clear categories for things.
As far as reef points
They will look stupid. Deep reefing the last normal reef then tying in the crazy lateen style reef, the amount of sail area is tiny and won't matter if it is loose probably can be wedged into the proper reef roll without too much problem.
If you want a name for such a weird reef . A "blast" reef. When there is no other choice to reduce sail.
However, another serious point is that the duck that Andy was sailing had problems under the deep reefed standard sail (some of which might hve been related to trying to slow down for the other ducks. They were much slower. The 40 square foot reefed sail might be qutie OK on a 12ft sail boat. Another option could be to carry n emergency polytarp sail triangular sail with stronger patches for absurdly strong stuff.
It took an average of 90 minutes setting up the boat, and about the same time getting tied down on the trailer. The Goose takes 10 minutes each way. Now the Goose lets you hang out on the flat tanks which are pretty accomodacious.
The Goose gains stability when you put weight on the corners. The GIS does not. The Goose is friendly and easily entered with very little leaning when boarding. The GIS, not so much. When the Goose rolls over it does not hold water as it floats on the sealed side tanks and water dumps itself.
Try that in your bay-sucking GIS next time the rail dips. You got a lot of bailing to do. The GIS is a beautiful, classic-lines, sailing vessel anyone would be proud to own and display. The Goose sailbot looks like a wind animal and it's s the beautiful-sister in the Michael Storer boat family.
But the Goose makes you feel like you are really a fire-breathing, red-blooded, rip-snorting, alligator-rammming sailor who can take on any and all conditions with this floating anvil.
This is the SUV of back-country expedition-sailing and with that big 105 sq. foot GIS sail from Really Simple Sails you can reef to an appropriate power level. A fully-powered-up Goose is something to experience as it accelerates up on a plane.
Goat sailboat Plans
A lightweight simple sailing boat with excellent performance
Goat requires a greater level of sailing attention - will keep you much busier as a singlehander. But it can carry four adults and gear and still sail well.
The basic rigging page on this website is there plus pages and pages of tuning and handling ideas. If you look at the links at the bottom of the article link above there is a summary for lots.
Wooden boat store
Nutshell Pram sailing kit
Nutshell Pram sailing kit (USD 2,600) includes the spars, rudder, daggerboard, etc. and everything else required for sailing but not the sail itself. The sail is an additional USD 325 - 395).
Epoxy is included, but not sure whether that is only for gluing the boat or also for coating. Plywood is sapele: pretty and more durable but also more heavy and a lot more pricey than ocoume. Timber is included, paint is not.
A few requirements.
Kit or no kit has a lot to do with the building method. A kit brings the requirements down a bit, especially if it is a more complicated build like lap strake which requires a strongback with moulds and typically the builder to measure the individual strakes of this.
In a self-jigging construction (like a lot of Michael Storer's boat designs), it is quite easy to lay out the individual parts on plywood, to cut them out with a jigsaw and to plane them to the lines. Getting the required timber cut to specs is necessary for most, unless you own a table saw or bandsaw and a thicknesser.
The Eureka vs. the Quick Canoe
A really big part of sailing is to prepare. One the Quick Canoe must plan, prepare for any situation.
The biggest difference in the two in terms of process is the fact that the QC is simple enough in shape to be taped together while the inside joints are glassed. Drilling and wiring alone eat up a bit of time and the care that you need to take in working around the wires (or small zip ties) on the inside in order to get a smooth filleted joint will add steps and time.
"Eureka" is a more premium build. Gaboon will get the weight down to 42lbs in 1/4" or with effort in weight cutting maybe down to 30lbs with lots of care (paulownia timber, 5/32 (4mm) ply with 2 oz glass on outside of bottom and bilge panels with an overlap of 1" onto the topside - that way replacing the glass tape on the outside of the boat.
You can economise a bit, but with the extra effort of the build and the prettiness of the boat, don't economise too much.
Whereas the Quick Canoe is so simple it can be economised as far as you dare (at your own risk) It could also be tarted up with eureka style gunwales and inwales and breast hooks as it looks quite classic from some angles.
Thinking of the puzzle joints like you saw on the little row/sail. They really make everything snap together and line up. From the DXF, break up the panels into pieces that join that way (assuming the half-panels are a little less than 8' each).
The Eureka's long, narrow panels would make a good candidate for that type of building process. There'd never be anything more cut without a separate boat plans purchase. But that's getting ahead or ourselves.
The Eureka 4.73m is a classic simple wooden canoe - It's Quick Canoe design that is even simpler .Click here to boat Plan comparison page.
Sometimes there is a 'season' for a complex build, and sometimes it is more practical for a modest boatbuilding project. Either canoe will get you floating on the water, but one may be less stressful to the household in terms of time and money.
The GIS (Goat island skiff)
The GIS's Plans
As the boat has become better known many more people buy plans because they are interested and there is no build.
They represent more than 30 acomplished boat designers. These small boat plans cover a wide range of style, type and construction/building methods.
Reference for paddle
Checked some references (including yours) to determine the correct shaft length. Bought a cheap paddle to confirm the length.
There are plans and measurements to match your body here. Normally when a boat is wide or high freeboard the paddles have to be a bit longer. Could make one a bit long without the handle - try it clumsily to get an idea then cut and fit the handle when you have a guesstimate.
But this is more as a normal reference for paddle length so you can check what you have.
This is not a 50/50 Canoe (so equally good to paddle as to sail) which have less beam so they can use a double bladed paddle. One could perhaps also use one on this Canoe, but it would have to be rather long and you would need some sort of low seat to get a decent angle of the blade in comparison to the water.
Well one way to make it WaterTribe legal is just add another reef at the bottom.
The Hobie AI and TI reefing system is really a joy when the weather goes south. Instant spin reefing. Intensity sails sells an old-style AI sail for 160 bucks, but here is no economical TI sail available.
If you want wild steering downwind on a monohull, that is the way to go in a breeze.
Hobie sells theirs for around 600 dollars and a lot of people are building their own wooden equivalents and just transplanting the Hobie system. There is a market for bigger sails that would fit the home built boats and they would love a bigger AI sail (90 sq. feet) or a bigger TI sail (120 sq feet), that 105 sq. foot GIS sail on 12 foot Gis. Even with the 85 pound dog in the bow you could get butt on the transom and plane off downwind once you got the nose up.
Self-rescuing in a GIS
If you have a similar boat and when building, you need to build a bunk inside to give myself a flat sleeping area and was planning to glue foam underneath it for floatation, but ended up just piling in a bunch of camping mattresses 50x200x12 cm +- in volume or about 120 liters/kilos, which is about the weight of the boat and they get tied in up under the front deck during the day.
Plus a couple of 30 liter fenders tied under the rowing bench in the cockpit, plus an 80-liter compartment in the rear.
Note: The point isn't relying on the pump to rescue you, the point is to rely on prudent judgement and seamanship to not need the backup pump.
The advertised flow rates are at very low head pressures. In this type of application where there is just 3ft of hose and it's pushing water less than a couple of feet up, the actual flow rate is probably pretty close to advertised. Pick the 1200 because it's the highest flow rate in the small pump size. That and a low amp draw make for a light and compact unit. You can time the pump's output into a 5 gal bucket to get a rough idea.
A bulkhead to keep water out of the cabin is a start which will prevent the bow from sinking
If there is buoyancy under the cockpit seats or the Lazarette is watertight that will stop the stern from sinking.
There are two choices with watertight layouts. Fore and aft buoyancy the boat sits lower in the water, easy to reach the centreboard, easier to get back aboard but usually a fair bit of bailing.
Second choice is side buoyancy where the boat floats on its side with the cockpit free of water. More likely to turn turtle because the mast angle to the water is greater. Harder to reach the centreboard to pull the boat up, little or no water to bail out but boat floats high and might be hard to reboard.
It is a pretty complex set of swings and roundabouts.
Another alternative is a self draining cockpit along with some end buoyancy. I don't like this approach for my boats because the building of the hull is so simplified and quick that the self draining cockpit goes close to doubling the labour time of the build and taking the hull weight over the 140lb limit I try to keep under - two adults can carry 140lbs a short distance.
Note: For anything but the heaviest of conditions you can't beat watertight compartments with decently sealing boat hatches. Although they all leak a bit, they give one plenty of time to self rescue.
The different sail sizes and their effectiveness with the hydrofoil
It could be a drag issue, at higher apparent wind speeds a flapping sail (a baggy floppy one like the laser in particular) is going to produce heaps of drag when it depowers. The wing sail would avoid that part.
Or it could be that because the laser on hydrofoils is sailing at 10 knots faster than the regular laser that the proportional square of the apparent wind speed means way too much heeling moment.
The Laser hydrofoils look nothing like the modern Moth version though. They are bigger as you would expect because they have to do more lifting so have more drag. But they also quickly learned that more power was not an answer to more speed, so they recommend the 4.7 or Radial rig for use with the foils.
If you still want to try the wing on a foiling Laser. Getting a good read on how well a wing vs soft sail performs on any kind of Laser is going to require more practice. None of us really know how to sail well with the wing. Soft sails give some kind of clue as to what you're doing wrong by flapping. The wing just silently stands there, waiting for you to do something right, then it takes off with surprising power.
Note: The length of the GIS boa tmight pose a problem to get a launch, unless the conditions right. It might suck down too hard initially.
US kit makers for the GIS
David Graybeal at Harbor Woodworks is one of them. The other is John Owens who does kits of the Quick canoe, Eureka and a PDR based on the Oz RV and does after market foils.
The oars that the Puuvenipiste Savo line rowboats are using
These are different from everything else people have seen before. The shafts are laminated from appr. 2-3 mm spruce (all wood fibres laying in the same direction unlike plywood), rectangular measuring roughly 35mm in the vertical plane and 45mm in the horizontal plane tapering a bit towards the ends of the shafts.
The blades are made from 4mm plywood with a light laminated pine rib (perhaps 8mm or so high and 35mm wide) on the aft size to assist getting its shape and strength. No glass, no other reinforcements. You can select up a pair and they are amazingly light (normal oars weighs what a pair of these oars does.)
OzGoose 2017 Plans
The new Generation of OzGoose Plans and building Instructions.
It incorporates all the information in one document. If you have the goose supplement already or have bought one for $20 I will upgrade you to this full plan for free.
You will have the rv plans plus supplement for $40. with the upgrade you will have the RV plans and the Oz Goose 2016 plans worth a total of $66.
The new boats
The new boats are better to build and easier to sail. Mine has a very narrow "groove" upwind. The others just want to go without much thinking - get the sail right and they go. With mine it has a quite narrow centreboard which can stall out.
This is only possible with iterations of design starting from the original Jim Post and Ian Henehan boats from the supplement (separate bow tank and two side tanks that were not full length to one based on the easier construction of the OzRacer RV with full length side tanks and a diaphragm bullkhead at the front of the cockpit.
It has been a classical Industrial design process that depended on a huge amount of sailing and regular racing the boats.
There are many home built boat types that have gone through anything like this process.
Since the downhaul/vanghaul controls both the shape of the top of the sail and the twist, the flexibility of the yard controls the degree of coupling between the two. The new stiff yard provides more twist control in proportion to flattening the head. The flexible yard allows the head to be very flat before reducing twist much. The distribution of the curve is the same of course and both work just fine with the stock head round.
All of them are tapered square per the original balance lug supplement. The difference is in the rounding. The stiff yard has 1/4" radius rounded corners and the flexible yard has 1/2" radius corners. Since they are rounded over with a laminate trimmer, it's a repeatable process.
A lot of tuning work. (Different yards for different conditions, solo/crewed, etc.). It certainly makes a big difference on sail setup on our boats and changes the feel and responsiveness quite a bit.
OKDIA/OK Dinghy Plans
And started almost a plywood kitboat craze in the class after decades of glass and composite boats.
This is one is about the development of the new generation of plywood kit boats for the OK Class.
The boat lists them a $700 with full DXF files for computer cutting the sheets. If your mental framework is a new composite hull then it really really makes sense to go wood.
The HAVOC Plans
The new 4 plank design Boat
This new boat is a 4 plank interpretation of a very successful earlier design by Jo Richards. If successful I would imagine Keith will release plans. Here is an earlier N12 design and plans of his at http://www.bluelightning.co.uk/Twelves/twelves.htm