• Wichard’s range of blocks will cover all your yacht’s possible applications; Roller blocks , Plain Bearing Blocks , Ball Bearing blocks

• Stainless steel products, forged in France, and stamped - guarantee of safety.
• Safety products: harness tethers. The best in marine hardware for boat and yachts, for your safety.
• Sailing accessories: knives, tillers extensions, shacklers - commonly used tools designed for performance, comfort and ease of use whilst sailing.
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Boat Hardware, Deck & Interior Hardware


Interior Hardware

Wichard Production

WICHARD -the best marine hardware manufacturing specialist!

you will always find the right Wichard product which has been designed and engineered.

  • Blocks
  • Stainless Steel
  • Safety
  • Sailing accessories

Wichard Inc.
148a Bryce Blvd
VT05454 USA
Tel : + 1 401 683 5055
Fax : + 1 802 655 4689



Wichard Marine hardware

Marine Blocks:

Roller blocks - performance and robustness blocks suited to all modern ropes
HR roller blocks - for sailing, yachts and mega yachts and racing boats
Ball bearing blocks - new design and perfect for most modern boats and yachts and dynamic operations, Smooth running for speed action or low load
Plain bearing blocks - for static boat operations
Ratchet blocks - in several versions for most boats and yachts
Snatch blocks - Stainless blocks for any yachts and catamarans
Accessories - any deck accessories

Stainless steel Stainless steel hardware

Adjusters - adjusters range to improve the overall performance of the boat and sails performance
Wire accessories - Wire accessories like Lifeline and Pelican hooks, Swage studs, grips etc.
Fastenings - A full range of pad eyes for sailing boats
Snap hooks - A complete range of snap hooks, carbine hooks and morring hooks, etc.
Swivels - Swivels models for different rotation directions
Shackles - A complete range of 316L stainless shackles, in various sizes
Titanium shackles
HR shackles
Halyard shackle - 3 models shackle: MX6, MX8 and MX10
Maintenance - stainless steel cleaning and passivation Wichard paste

Safety Products

Tethers - A complete range of models with double action safety or carbine Easy to use hooks
Jacklines kit
Boom brake - easy to use and and Light several settings for your mainsail
Release spreader bar - Easy to re-engaged, perfect for dinghies and catamarans

Sailing Accessories

Wind indicators - Easy to fit Wind indicators for stability
Tiller extensions - different versions of extensions: carbon, telescopic, with handle and more
Opening luff rope prefeeder - with Opening and closing operations versions
Knives - a full range of sail knives in Several options.

Wichard sailing accessories Lindemann stand 2016

To see the 2014 Wichard sailor’s catalogue visit: http://www.wichard.com/images/info_pages/wichard-catalogue-eng-158.pdf


How to Use

A good harness has no value without a proper tether. Tethers are usually constructed of strong rope or webbing with a minimum breaking strength of at least 4,950 pounds as recommended by the ORC.

On one end, the tether will have a carbine hook, snap shackle or other quick release hardware that attaches to the D-rings of the harness. The quick-release mechanism is critical at the harness end. if the tether becomes entangled or is under too great a strain, it gives you a method of releasing the tether and escaping.

The outer end of the tether usually has a second carbine or snap hook to attach to any strong point on the boat. The hook on the boat end should preferably be either a locking snap hook or a locking gate that minimizes the need to use two hands to attach the tether.

Tethers should be short, no longer than 6 feet in length. This provides less possibility of going overboard and being dragged through the water a long way from the boat. It also keeps excess tether from becoming entangled in your feet, winch handles or other boat gear. And if you do fall, a short tether provides less shock loading, which could result in broken ribs or other injuries.

When performing close work such as at the mast of a sailboat, or when sitting at the helm in heavy weather, a 6-foot tether may be too long. One way of solving this is to purchase a retractable tether.

These are a 6-foot length of hollow webbing with a piece of heavy shock cord inside that shortens the tether when not under a load. These also act as a shock absorber when suddenly pulled taut.

Perhaps a better way is to have twin tethers, one of 6-foot length and the second of about 3 feet. The unused tether can be fastened back up to the harness D-rings when not in use, giving you a choice of lengths at all times. In addition, twin tethers have a second benefit.

If using lifelines or strong handrails to move down the deck in heavy weather, you will be presented with several cases where you must unsnap the tether to move past a stanchion or other obstacle. In the few moments the hook is in your hand, the tether,m literally your lifeline - is of no value. Twin tethers solve this problem by allowing you to hook on to a new point with one tether before releasing the first one.

Safety Jacklines

Jacklines can also be used solve the problems inherent in traversing a large open expanse of deck without the need to hook onto and off a series of strong points. Jacklines can be a length of webbing, vinyl coated lifeline wire, or rope that is run along the deck. The most common use is to run two jacklines fore and aft , one port and one starboard, along the side decks of your boat. These are usually fastened at the ends to very strong pieces of boat hardware and mooring cleats are favored for this purpose. Once your tether is snapped onto one of the jacklines, you can move the entire length of the boat without the need to unlatch and re-hook except to cross from one side of the boat to the other.

4 Wichard models available for 2014:
length 8,5m., length 11m., length 14m. and length 16m.

www.wichard.com | Jacklines

Jacklines should have the same breaking strength as your tether or safety harness since the shock loads on them will be the same as on the other gear if you fall overboard. While large rope or vinyl-coated wire meets this strength criterion, webbing is much preferred. Round items on deck such as rope or wire always offer an invitation to roll out from under your foot when stepped on. Any line or webbing used above deck must have UV protection to reduce deterioration from the sun.

Jacklines should be located close enough to the cockpit or helm station so that you can hook your tether on before stepping out of the protected area. But remember, jacklines usually run along the outside of the boat, and if you slip over the side, the 6-foot length of your tether will allow you to land in the water. The forces involved in being dragged through the water alongside the boat at any speed makes getting you back on board very difficult. For this reason, pad eyes or other strong points should be located near the centerline of the boat in the cockpit and near the helm. When returning from the deck, snapping your tether onto one of these centerline points and unsnapping from the jacklines ensures that even if you fall, you’ll still be on the boat.


Safety harnesses are usually made from webbing much like that used for seat belts in automobiles. Many are sewn into a single piece that fits over your shoulders and around your chest.

They have a tether attachment point in front near the bottom of your breastbone in the form of heavy D-rings or similar hardware. Harnesses can also be found in the form of a vest or built into some foul weather gear, inflatable PFDs are also available with integral harnesses.

Many women will probably find the standard harness configuration uncomfortable to wear and unbearable if they’re being dragged along side a boat at 4 or 5 knots. For them, a harness in the form of a vest, inflatable PFD or foul weather gear is advisable as they are generally more comfortable and they distribute any shock load over a wider area of the body.

The best harness to buy is one that fits right, is easy to adjust and is lightweight, if it isn’t comfortable, you’re less likely to wear it. If it doesn’t fit properly, it is possible for you to slip out of the harness or for it to injure you.

The ORC (Offshore Racing Conference) recommends the webbing be at least 1-½ inches in width with a breaking strength exceeding 3,300 pounds and a working load exceeding 1,500 pounds. It should have two D-rings, one D-ring is too little to bet your life on. All stitching on the webbing must be heavily reinforced.

Weather bad enough to warrant a PFD or foul weather gear should also dictate that all aboard don harnesses. Thus the combination units save the cost, storage and trouble of layering two separate items. The combination harness/automatic inflatable PFD is worth consideration in any event, as the life vest will float a crewmember knocked unconscious in a fall overboard. Likewise, foul weather jackets and full suits with built-in harnesses ensure that when you put on your rain gear, the harness is in place to face a rain-slicked deck.

Many options are available in harness design.

Better models are fitted with reflective tape that shows the position of the crewmember at night. Some have pockets or tabs for strobe lights, whistles, knives or other safety gear. These features provide added benefits to wearing the harness, especially at night when the safety need should be greatest on board.

To ensure your and your crew's safety

One of the best methods to ensure your and your crew's safety is prevention and safety harnesses with tethers are the best gear to have on board to prevent a man overboard situation from arising.

Given the motion and uncertain footing on board most boats in heavy weather, falling overboard is always a real possibility.

In the event of a slip, the harness and tether keeps you attached to the boat, making your chance of recovery nearly 100%.

Harnesses, tethers and jacklines all work in concert to minimize your chances of falling overboard. Without this equipment your chance of recovery is greatly reduced. Like any other piece of safety gear, a harness and tether are only of value if used, they do no good in the bottom of a locker.