Features of a jet driven - advantages and disadvantages
small yacht practical advice - Fitting Out and Laying up - good working knowledge-article - maintenance advice & yacht practical advice
engine technique - "do it yourself" technique - auto engine converted to marine use
Buying a boat via eBay - May be interesting If You Plan to Buy a Boat via the internet
Everstart jumpsarter unit - Electrical power - easy way to add 12 Volt Electrical Power on board, powere for limited nighttime needs(article)
"go-fast" ideas - sailing and "go-fast" ideas by Steve Benjamin(article)
Small Boat Sailing and Sail advice - Type of sailing, Traditional sailmaking and computer design
Boat shopping simple guide - important considerations
Choosing Factors - OutBoards Factors, Advantages and Maintenance
cleaning & maintenance - Guide to Boat Cleaning and Care products
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
Dedicated to the shipbuilders of Essex, MA, the Essex Shipbuilding Museum houses one of the finest[...]
Boating / Sailing Magazines: 1, 2, 3
rights - Property rights when Boating
Boating Safety course - materials cover launching a PWC, boating rules, reading signs and rights-of-way.
New Power and Sail Boats for 2013/2014
Guide to Food onBoard - Packaging, Garbage, Beverages, Transportation and storage
Find more: The Information Resources section
E15 fuel - NOT EPA-approved its use in boats
LEDs or Halogen Lights on Boat - LEDs or Halogen Lights on Boat - a bright solution on board , misconception and advantages
Diesel electric propulsion systems - Manufacturers & benefits of this emerging technology
Insurance - The three biggest issues facing boating right now
satellite TV system Test - Installation Solutions for Intellian i2 Satellite TV system
How to protect your boat from theft, see and comment
How to keep the boat during the winter. Check out what Boat Owners have to say.
AIS and Radar - There isn't a "better" solution - different systems, different advantages
Industrial Gear Oils and Lubricants for the marine and offshore industry, Manufacturers & Products.
Guide to Thermometers - a full spectrum of Thermometers, Commonly Used thermometers and How to choose one
Gas Detectors Guide - Gas Leak Detectors and Monitor Sensor Selection Guide. Minimize Health Risks with a Gas Leak Detector
Guide to Carbon monoxide - Quickly finding, diagnosing, and fixing. Using A Combustion Analyzer Properly and Symptoms.
GPS - Guide and receivers, Getting Started With GPS
Epoxy Tips By David G. - "How t"o Epoxy Tips & Tricks
A Guide for Floor Systems working - Epoxy Paint Floor Systems For Boats (boat flooring project)
Tips and solutions - Fiberglass, Plywood, Woodworker Building Tips
The 10 considerations before buying a sailboat (Expert Advice)
Water as ballast. Internal or External ballast, advantages
Detection and methods - How to Curing leaking keel bolts
When & How Tips - Boating and Sailing Tips
Safety Netting around the perimeter of the boat - How to Installing and Attaching Safety Netting
Towing Tenders - "How to" tips to help you tow your tender safely and securely
Navigation Charts, Selection, Plotting and Stowage
How to Using a Multimeter - diagnosing electrical system problems
Boat Registration & Documentation - to learn what the requirements are
Boat, Navigational and Saling instruments - How to make a Selection
Boat Auctions - How to Find Hot Boat Auctions Online and the possibility of finding a good vessel.
Marine generators (Buying Guide) - How To Choosing a Generator for Your Boat, a major benefits and actors that goes into choosing the best Unit.
Most economical Outboards - New Outboards, Engine performance and fuel economy
Boating Guides & Tips and Safety
"How to" Prevent and fix
Boat Articles, Guides, Commentary and archival articles & helpful information
Boat Tech Guides and Tips
IPS Drives - Volvo Penta on the 70-foot Spencer
Hardware Installation on wooden boats - Hardware installation methods, problems and principles of Bonding and Fasteners
Small Boats - potentials & factors
Boat Cleaning Agents & Alternative -Think about the Ocean-safe products
Basic Tools & Maintenance Supplies from 18 to 40 feet boat owners
Problems - Anchoring Problems, Facts and Rules
Fisherman type - Fisherman anchors, characteristics & advice for selection
Diagnose or prevent moisture problems:
Moisture Meters Guide and a sufficient knowledge For boat buyers, owning a moisture meter.
the New Concept of Keel- Loop Keel Benefits,explanation and tests
Epoxy fillers & Underwater repairs How to Use Epoxy to Fill In Holes, Sealing Holes.
US Manufacturers and Suppliers of Trailers, Pontoon Boat Trailers and Accessories Manufacturing
Fix Tips & Guides - How to Prevent Your Boat from...
"How to" winterizing tool
The Sea Flush - funnelshaped device makes dreaded boat winterizing easier and faster
click on images to view actual article
The Sea Flush is a two-piece, funnelshaped device with an injection-molded plastic reservoir and a rubber shop-vac insert, which provides enough friction to hold the vacuum hose in place, freeing up the users hands to take care of other tasks. The reservoir fits into the top of any canister-style sea strainer with an inside opening of 1.6 inches to 5 inches, allowing users to winterize or do a freshwater flush through the sea strainer. The shop-vac insert screws into the reservoir, making it easier to use a shop vacuum to clear a clogged through-hull or purge water from a system as part of the winterizing process. We decided to put the Sea Flush through its paces by using it to winterize the raw-water circuit on the 1 freshwater-cooled Beta 43 engine on our Chesapeakebased test boat, a Union 36 (which we reviewed in the February 2010 issue). Testers found the Sea Flush easy to use and the in- structions clear and easy to follow. The first step was to remove the lid and filter basket from the engine sea strainer, then insert the Sea Flush reservoir into the body of the sea strainer and secure it in place with the two provided bungee cords. Because our test boat was in the water, the next step was to screw the shop-vac insert into the reservoir and use a shop vac to blow the seacock and hose clear of water. We used a 6-gallon, 5-horsepower vacuum, and it cleared the water with no problem. To keep water from re- entering the seacock and hose, we closed the seacock, then turned off the shop vac. Next, testers removed the vacuum insert and upended a gallon of antifreeze into the reservoir, allowing the running engine to pull from it much like an office-style water cooler. Prior to the reservoir emptying, we replaced the jug, which lasted until we saw a steady flow of antifreeze at the exhaust discharge, at which point, the engine was shut down, the reservoir removed, and the strainer basket and lid reinstalled. The process for winterizing a generator would be the same, with a few minor variations for air-conditioning units. Note that winterizing an engine without running itby simply forcing antifreeze through the raw water loop with a shop vac is a bad idea. Should the exhaust can fill up and drive the water-antifreeze mix into the exhaust manifold, an open exhaust valve will allow water to enter one or more cylinders, which could lead to rings rusted to the cylinder wall come spring time.
We liked the concept of the Sea Flush and found that it performed as advertised. In the past, we've used a bronze "T" fitting attached to the seacock, which allowed us to winterize by inserting a threaded hose barb connected to a length of hose run to a modified five-gallon bucket of antifreeze.
This setup cost only S30 compared to the S69 Sea Flushbut it was a pain to use. The Sea Flush was faster and easier, and it allowed us to more accurately monitor the amount of antifreeze needed. Even with a lifetime warranty against defects, the Sea Flush seems pricey, but for those with multiple systems (engine, generator, AC unit, etc.) to winterize, it's a good deal. It's use for unclogging through-hulls and freshwater rinsing are bonuses.
The Facts: ROOSTERTAILS
I've had many readers ask, 'Why do boats create roostertails?'... or... 'Are there performance losses due to a boat's roostertail?'Words: Jim Russell, AeroMarine Research
It is true that there u a lot of 'lost energy' in a large, high roostertail in order to pump that much water into the air ... instead of using it to propel the boat faster! And there is some valuable insight offered by looking at a performance boat's roostertail.
The roostertail is the result of propeller hydrodynamics - the displacement of the water used to generate needed thrust to pro pel the boat forward at great speed Many present-day engines have huge power capabilities, and it's a real set up challenge to transfer this energy efficiently as thrust for forward motion of the boat.
See Figure 1: Perfect set-up. Roostertail - 'loss of Energy'
For example, a typical 200+ hp engine deiivers its power through an outdrive (lower unit) where it Is converted to thrust of about 589kg (1300 pounds) or more at 100 kph (60mph). That load is pushing against the water. The set-up objective is to translate as much of this energy as possible to thrust, moving the boat forward Some of the water just can't stay where it belongs, especially if the angle of the trim is trying to push the bow of the boat up - and hence the water at the reai gets
poshed up too! Thrust is more efficient when the motor drive is trimmed 'in'. with a 'thrust-line' that is allgned straight In the direction that the boat is moving. There is inevitably a loss of available energy when some of the available thrust is directed upwards and not in the forward" direction.
See figure 2: Improper trim can bleed off valuable thrust, showing up as a roostertail.
Trim angle - 'Less is more'
Of course, the use of engine 'trim' to generate bow lift is often a useful mechanism to reduce hull drag and ultimately increase speed ... so there is always a trade-off in optimising the performance setup of a hull. The telltale roostertail can be an indicator to show whether the energy is being used economically or not. The most efficient trim angle is when the prop shaft is level to the water surface - pointed straight in the direction of the hull's velocity. In this set-up more of the available thrust is being used to propel the boat forward at speed. From an engineering standpoint, the roostertail is a loss of energy In technical terms, as the propeller turns atingh RPM. there is a volume of water being moved. This volume of water is increased as the RPM of the propeller goes up and causes an increased pressure area behind the propeller. This'pressure swell'is similar to the condition, for example, when you're holding a garden hose and put your thumb over the nozzle; the pressure swell' causes the'breakaway'from the normal flow stream - a spray or roostertail'.
In the performance powerboat application, eventually this high- pressure region reaches the stage where it breaks the surface, giving the famous roostertail effect.
Figure 3: Big roostertaih can sometimes mean 'lost energy'
Surfacing propellers also cootnbute to roostertails. The surface-piercing propellers run half in and half out of the water and usually display a roostertail In the air behind the
The telltale roostertail can be an indicator to show whether the energy is being used economically or not.
Sir Robin Knox-Johnston tests MOB recovery procedures with the
MAIB, the RYA and
Ydchting Monthly aboard
Dick Durham reports in Yachting Monthly Magazine, published in July 2012:
INNOVATION and TRADITION
"French gloss" - " Le Tonkinois " Simple solution to the old Woodenboat problem
by Chris Hardenbrook
Any owner of a good old boat will, at some time or another, be confronted with the sight of brightwork that no longer lives up to the name. I was faced with this problem when the two-part "system" applied by my boat's previous owner started to fail. It had begun to cloud and crack even before Herald Bird came into my life. After a year it was certain there would be no simple fix: small sheets of the coating could be lifted off with a dull snap. The only option was to remove it and start over. I won't go into the details of removal, except to say it isn't as hard a task as it might seem at first. Using a heat gun and scraper, keeping focused and resisting impatience are the keys (see Tom Young's article in the May 2005 issue).
When down to bare wood I was faced with The Dilemma of Decision or, more exactly, The Dilemma of Indecision. With so many wood finishes, coatings, systems, and treatments out there, which is best for my boat? I found the answer in Good Old Boat, and it was a total surprise. After reading much of the available advice about which varnish to use and how to apply it, I was more confused than ever. What I wanted was a brilliant brightwork finish without the angst of dealing with a temperamental product that had to be applied under exacting environmental variables by a journeyman alchemist to get acceptable results. The more I read, the more inadequate I felt. Then I found Le Tonkinois (luh-tonk-een-WAH), a classic French varnish that's been around since 1906. It's celebrating a 100th anniversary this year, but is virtually unknown in this country.
In contrast to all other varnishes I considered, Le Tonkinois seemed the most environmentally friendly as it is a natural product without additives. The claims for UV- and abrasion-resistance, ease of application (no thinning, wide humidity and temperature tolerance), and low mainte- nance all proved true in practice. My experience has been 100 percent positive with this product. Here are the highlights: teak is an oily wood, so after a final sanding with 220-grit sandpaper and a thorough wiping with a tack cloth, I wiped again with a clean rag dampened with acetone. I used an ox-hair brush to apply all coats. Le Tonkinois goes on easily. Work quickly and deliberately, keeping it even and maintaining a wet edge. Don't try to pick out little bugs or rework runs and sags. Allow 24 hours between coats. Although it is not necessary to sand between coats, I recommend you do so after the first coat and before the last, at a minimum.
The stuff is so clear it is hard to see where you have put on wet varnish if you don't lightly wet-sand between coats, and you'll get a flatter and deeper finish if you do. Apply eight to 10 coats. My maintenance schedule is to put on three coats once a year. When fin- ished, relax and be the envy of the marina. (I generated a bit of a buzz around my dock with that "Frog oil in a square can," as one colorful salt likes to call it.) I've used Le Tonkinois now for three years, and it's everything I hoped for. It makes my wood look spectacular and keeps me sailing in style. Belowdecks I used only four coats and haven't retouched it.
published in www.goldboat.com
Boating: Building a Dream
BY ANDREA STETSON
Special to the News-Press It might have been easier just to buy a boat, but the father and son team from Bonita Springs knew it would be more fun to build it. So using plans from the Internet and wood from Home Depot, Jon and Jonathan Baldia tackled the father-son project. They began their boat building in July and are now putting the finishing coats of paint on it. They hope to go on their maid- en voyage in early February.
Jonathan, 10, said he loves building the boat with his dad. "It takes a lot of work and you can spend a lot of time with your dad," he said. "It's quality time with my dad and it's a challenge." Jonathan said he's surprised the boat building has been so successful. "I didn't think my dad would get this far with it," he said. "I thought it would be 2007 before we finished it." But Baldia said it was just a matter of finding stretches of 2-3 hours at a time to work together.
ANDREA STETSON/SPECIAL TO THE NEWS-PRESS
Jon Baldia and his son Jonathan, 10, of Bonita Springs, paint the boat they built together. The father and son team got plans off the Internet and wood from a local store and built the entire boat themselves.
"You just follow the plans," Jon Baldia said. He said the hardest part of the project was sanding the boat. That's because it is all covered with a water- proof epoxy. "The problem with epoxy is it has bumps and it's hard," Baldia explained. "The problem is that's hard to sand." For Jonathan the hardest part was holding parts of the frame while his father worked on securing the pieces together. The plans from Denmark use no nails. Instead the Baldias made tiny holes in the wood and stitched the boat together with wire. Then the boat was glued.
"It's like suturing each panel and then gluing it," said Baldia, who is ah emergency room nurse. The Baldias' boat is 15 feet long, 44 inches wide and can carry up to 800 pounds. It weighs just 98 pounds. The Baldias plan to put an 8-horsepow- er Nissan engine on the vessel. The boat should be able to travel at speeds up to 21 knots. "It's something you can enjoy more because he built it," Baldia said. "He'll have appreciation of how much work it took. He'll take care of it and be proud of his accomplishment."
Jonathan is proud of his work and he has some advice for oth- ers who want to build a boat. "If you want to build a boat, it's a lot of work, but it's actually very fun," Jonathan said. With the construction now done, the only thing left is painting. Jonathan and his father are painting the boat yellow with black trim and plan to add a shark's mouth silhouette in the front. Baldia hopes the bright yellow color will help other boaters see his son on the water. Jonathan said he wanted to build a boat because his last boat was an inflatable one and it was hard to use an inflatable with all the oysters in the back bays. "I'll probably use this one in the back bays," Jonathan said. "I want to do some redfish fishing." The last detail to be added will be the name. "I want to call it Crazy Taxi," Jonathan said. But even when the boat makes its first voyage, the father son boat building duo won't be done. "Next we're going to build a kayak," Jonathan said. Andrea Stetson is a Bonita Springs-based freelance writer. Contact her at firstname.lastname@example.org or leave a message at 992-1345.
Check your Boat
- Both: inboard or outboard motor
"How to" Prevent deadly gas "Carbon monoxide"
produced by the burning fuel in the cockpit or the cabin even when doors, windows or boat hatches are closed.
By: Louis Novak, U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Division
A lovely article about
,Vee Hull and "chine walking"
How to fix it and why it happens
Tech Tips | Hot Boat, January 2008
by Jim Russell
See full text below, or click on images to view actual HB article.
can arise with any high performance vee-hull. Chine walk is an aggressive, often rapid, side-to-side oscillation of the hull. Acute cases of chine walking grow more severe by themselves - called a "self-excited oscillatory instability." Really severe cases can see the boat bouncing from one chine to the other chine - and some hulls can chine walk in the middle of a turn! It can be a scary ride for even the experienced pilot. So let's explore the facts of "chine walking" - why it happens and how we can fix it.
Any Vee hull, and particularly pad-vee hulls, can experience chine walk. Hull inconsistencies or design issues, incorrect hull setup, water/ wake conditions, even wind conditions or driver inexperience can initiate chine walking. Veteran performance boat drivers have all experienced chine walk in their boats at one time - and have learned how (hopefully not the hard way) to deal with it for their hull. As the performance hull accelerates, lift increases and the wetted running surfaces needed to support the hull are reduced in surface area (more Speed = more Lift = less Surface required). As the speed increases through the velocity range, and wetted surface continues to decrease, the hull often gets to a point where the area of the lifting surfaces become very much reduced and the hull is now "balancing" on a small region of the vee or the "vee-pad." When that surface becomes sufficiently small, the hull can get to a point where it is "just barely" balancing on that reduced lifting surface area, and it becomes very tricky to maintain equilibrium of the hull as it is balanced solely on its vee or pad. The result is a rolling of the hull from side-to-side, from port-chine to starboard-chine, and back again. This rocking cycle can tend to get a little more extreme with each motion, and so the "balancing" must then be provided by additional driver (steering/throttle/trim) input in order to recover the hull to a balanced state. If left unchecked, the boat will rock from side to side with increasing drama. This is because the boat is now "inherently unstable" - meaning that if left alone (no driver input), the "imbalance" of the hull is more likely to get worse on its own, not better (in other words, the worse it gets - the worse it gets!) If it gets out of control, you can get into real trouble! As the hull tries to find just the right amount of surface areas to give it just the right amount of Lift to balance, the hull will cycle back and forth, from side to side - from one chine to the other chine - with more and faster motion. This is called "chine-walk." With some driver input, the condition can be stabilized. With changes to hull setup and/or changes to the driving technique the condition can be alleviated.
Note that the notion that you can "drive through" chine walking without making adjustments is a dangerous approach. Do not try to merely drive a boat through a chine walk. Some drivers hope that if they keep trimming and/or adding power, the boat will somehow stabilize itself. This kind of thinking will almost always get you into more severe trouble. Make the proper setup changes first. With experience, you can then learn to make the subtle steering, trim or throttle adjustments that might control the condition - but don't try to just blast through the onset of chine walking, as this usually ends up to be a very wet conclusion! Chine walking is usually observed more often in vee-hulls with high-lift running pads or narrow running pads, high-deadrise hulls (deep Vees) and straight vee hulls with no pad. Hulls with a Veed pad (instead of a flat pad) are also less likely to avoid chine walking. All of these bottom designs are just naturally harder to balance at high speed. Vee-pad hulls all have a tendency to fall off the "pad" under some conditions.
This is normal for these types of hulls and it can often lead to chine walking. Stepnotches that are too wide, or a planing pad/beam which is too narrow, can tend to permit chine walking at high speed. Hull designs with reverse-chine configurations can experience "lifting" or "falling" ('chine walking') through a turn. Another contribution to chine walking can be seen at higher speeds from "propeller slap" (usually observed more with propellers that have fewer blades). As the prop turns, each blade enters the water and anotherexits the water[...]HB
Advice for Boating
- Be Kind to Novices
Learn the skills of handling and Boatdocking, some of the advice below.
...to get the boat flying?
Hhigh-speed sailing on something a little more
Seahorse has not been shy of plugging the significance of the burst of energy that has transformed the International Moth into the world's pre-eminent foiler class. Now we thought it was time to take a look at the class from another angle, less the balletic perspective of our friendly Moth aviator Rohan Veal and more the view from planet earth... enter
Click on the images below to see it at readable size.
I remember the first time I saw a Bladerider Moth sailing. I was having lunch at Middle Harbour Yacht Club in Sydney when Rohan Veal slid into view. In a light and fickle breeze he casually hiked high above the water in a way physics shouldn't allow. Gybing back and forth in front of us, he held mv attention like a long tennis rally. Finally, he caught some pressure and accelerated off to the limit my neck would turn. With fork frozen halfway to my mouth lunch was forgotten - game set and match to Bladerider. The foiling Moth is an amazing phenomenon. Such is the demand for these lightweight flyers (around 300 built to date) that visiting McConaghy's yard in China this summer, where the Bladeriders are constructed. I watched them heading out of one door at the rate of six a week... while at the time the larger but equally interesting Green Dragon Volvo 70 was heading out of the other door, albeit slightlv more slowly.
There jre now two Bladerider foiling Moths m full production, the X8 .and the FX.
has been around since 2007 and is the lighter of the two, constructed with pre-preg carbon hull, moulded carbon wing frame, pre-preg carbon centreboard, rudder, rudder box and foils, and a carbon mast, boom and tiller.
The hull shape
is a flat bottom with square chines with the principal volume in the stern to assist take-off.The X8 is aimed at the high-performance end of the Moth faithful, with a hull weight close to 10kg, and a fully rigged weight around 30kg; this is the black foiler Moth most people would have seen.
is its newer all white cousin, with the same hull shape and 3.355m length as the X8 (the maximum length stipulated by the International Moth Class), but construction is different: a vacuum-infused, fiberglass foam sandwich hull, with an aluminium wing rack, giving it a fully rigged weight with foils of 40kg. Bladerider have launched the FX as a one-design youth boat and for newcomers who want to get
into some high-speed sailing on something a little more rugged and less expensive than the ratified X8. It's easy to see where a modern foiler Moth is being rigged in a boat park - you just look for the crowd. Everything about this boat draws the eye.
The hullhas a width of only 30cm at the waterline (just look at a ruler and check how head- shakingly narrow that actually is), but when the wings are fitted - front wings slide into tubes forward of the bulkhead and the rear wings are secured by Ubolt this brings the beam out to 2.25m, so you stop looking at the hull, and shift your gaze to the beautiful and elegant T-foils.
The author, whose best Finn sailing days may well now be behind him., but who can still cut a fair dash down at Bondi on his longboard, takes one of the first Bladerider FXs out tor a spin on Sydney Harbour. The all-white FX features a number of cost savings compared to the premier X8 model, including these alloy racks (above) Both Bladerider models leave McConaghy's (fop right) as the complete, tidy package, and both feature this delicate-looking but reliable screw-and-ball adjuster (right) to fme-lune nde height
They are big. The main foil is just under 1m long, 117mm across the section and has a movable flap on the trailing edge. The rudder foil is 830mm long, 101 mm wide and is all solid - no adjustable flap. A quick glance and you know a lor of thought has been put into these lifting surfaces; Bladerider have evolved the shape so that the downward curve in the centre of the foil gives greater lift while the upward curve at the tips reduces tip vortices. The foils obviously create lift, but they have to work across a wide range, from the 6-7kt of breeze needed to get the boat flying, to the 20-25kt of breeze the good guys sail in, plus all the combinations of conditions in between.Light, medium or strong breeze and large, medium or no waves.
One analogy that comes to mind is that it's like trying to ride a penny-farthing bicycle on bumpy off-road terrain. There is a lot going on up high near you, but it's what is happening right at the bottom that counts. And it it goes wrong it goes horribly wrong...
The centreboard foil works in conjunction with the bow wand; the tapered fibreglass rod hanging down from the bow, which via stainless steel levers and pushrods is connected to the flap on the alt section of the horizontal centreboard foil. The wand hangs down 'feeling' the height of the boat above the water and, via the levers and rods, adjusts the foil flap to maintain the boar's (ie your!) height above the water.
The connecting rod's span from bow wand to main foil is set when you rig the boat, but it can be adjusted on the water by winding on the ball joint socket head adjuster at the head of the foil in the cockpit. Try doing this while stationary in a short chop to rediscover muscles that you thought were long since retired.
Bladerider have spent a lot of time working on the control system, particularly inside the centreboard, correctly identifying an efficient control system as being key not only to performance but also to the Bladerider's wider appeal tn the marketplace. Poking out of the top of the board is a small stainless steel knob, like the towmg hitch on your car. This is the bell crank, which when pushed aft, works to force the push rod, living inside the length ot the centreboard, down.
A small viewing chamber is cut out of the top of the centreboard to check these connections are working OK.
So what happens is the boat flies too high out of the water - the bottom of the bow wand glides forward- pushrods work adjusting the centreboard foil flap angle to alter height and bring boat down. Simple.
The rudder foil
is also adjustable, controlled by twisring the tiller extension, which moves the top of the rudder assembly back or forward - changing tinfoil's angle of attack. As I said all this is simple. Simple yes, easy no - far from it. When you sail ,a Bladerider you have to think about controlling your boat in four dimensions: pitch, heel, heading and altitude.
. The pitch of the boat (greatly influenced bv your body weight fore and aft) controls the angle of attack on the foils, and the drag the foils are subjected to. It also has an effect on the boat's lee or weather helm, as the centre of effort can be easily moved fore and aft around the centre of lateral resistance on the foils.
The boat must be sailed flat or heeled to windward. If it is heeled to leeward the foils will push the boat over and the boat will tip over by itselt - regardless of your efforts to balance it.
When learning to sail the Bladerider the best advice is to get into a reaching position, with body weight positioned in the middle of the wing frame - upwind and downwind take a bit of practice.
And finally the magic word: altitude. Once a Bladerider is clear of the water you experience something rare and slightly unnatural when sailing at speed: silence. The boat will go completely quiet, no noise at all, and will accelerate immediately to at least 11kt depending on the wind speed. But what happens next depends on the combination of foil angle and wand coordination, plus your weight position. And you have to be quick - the Bladerider Moth is so light and fast vou must be proactive, not reactive, there iust isn't time. More about sailing the boat in Part 2, including launching, tasking and gybing a boat with almost no weight. Plus bunny hops and porpoising, and how not to let them ruin your day.
How getting the best prop
The Most Useful Method to determine the best match for your vessel prop is through a good test.
click to view actual size
If you're looking to improve your boat's performance but don't want to 'break the bank' doing it, then the cost-effective move you might make is matching the best propeller for your boat.
"4 keys" to good construction of a solid offshore sportfishing boat
Helpful to anyone fisherman shopping for a quality sportfisher!
The fisherman who wants
To move up from a smaller boat to a larger, deep-water sportfisher needs to know what he's buying. He has to be sure he's purchasing a well- constructed craft that will give him years of durable service. To determine whether a boat is well built, he should research the following construction elements.
- Find out how much the hull weighs
Before It's rigged, that is, without engines, batteries, fuel, water or other heavy accessories. Comparing it to other boats in the same class tells the buyer if there is substance to the hull. If it's unusually heavy by comparison, ask the manufacturer what was included in the advertised weight. Hull thickness is important for a long-range fishing boat, Ask what type of fiberglass and how many layers are in the layup below the waterline. A thicker hull minimizes unwanted flexing and lowers the center of gravity, promoting more stability at rest. It also reduces the sound of water striking the hull while running.
Stringers are the backbone
Of the hull. There are many types of stringer materials and construction. Fiberglass is the best matenal and wood is the least desirable. Foam core stringers are okay if high-quality foam is used as forms to glass over. A fiberglass grid system is good if installed correctly. It's difficult to determine if the stringers are substantial without viewing the construction. So. ask the dealer to provide additional information on stringer composition and installation.
are next. They should be bonded to the top of stringer systems and to the inside of the hull sides. Coring can be kiln-dried, pressure-treated plywood or foam. There are good points to both, and if installed properly, they should have the same longevity. The pressure-treated plywood is heavier and provides stability, a smoother ride and sound deadening in rough fishing conditions. Towers, T-tops, seating and other amenities can be securely and easily fastened to this type of core.
For the fisherman who will
be using his craft in rough sea conditions, a three-piece boat construction system is appropriate.
The innerliner is bonded to the hull sides and the deck cap is fastened to the hull separately. This method provides greater strength and increased main deck space and toe room under the gunwale. A fisherman can stand more efect with his feet under the gunwale, and it's just plain safer. Secure fastening of the gunwale cap to the hull is the fourth major element contributing to the integrity of the assembled boat. One of the best methods is to fiberglass the cap to the hull on the inside and use a strong, proven adhesive on the outside.
Other good fastening procedures involve methacrylics, epoxies and urethanes, combined with screws or bolts. Paying attention to these four basic elements of construction should prove helpful to anyone shopping for a quality sport-fisher boat.| By Mark Hauptner
Maintaining your boat
Boat cleaning, restoring and Boat maintenance products
Maintenance products - reviewing products